Back in November, The Lentil Institution spread the news that there’d soon be a new Loving Hut in Northcote. It’s now been open a little over a month, and we stopped by for dinner before hitting the Northcote Social Club for a gig last week.

This is a huge outlet stocked with groceries at the front – bulk TVP, gallon jugs of vegetarian oyster sauce and the widest range of mock meats this side of Vincent. Behind the screen is a flouro-lit cafe with the atmosphere of a quiet food court.

The …